Anyone who has pulled a freshly printed resin part off the build plate knows the truth: the print itself is only half the job. The seconds between lifting the part and finishing it decide whether you end up with a strong, crisp model or a soft, tacky one that never cures properly. Here is a clean, repeatable post-processing routine that works with modern LCD printers.
Step 1: Remove and Drain
Once printing finishes, let the build plate drain for a minute or two so excess resin drips back into the vat. Carefully peel the part from the plate using the recommended removal tool — avoid flexing thin or detailed models too hard, as uncured resin is still soft.
- Use a soft spatula or scraper designed for the build plate
- Wear nitrile gloves during every handling step
- Keep a lint-free mat under your work area for drips
Step 2: The Wash
Washing removes uncured resin from the surface. The standard approach is an isopropyl alcohol (IPA) bath, ideally 91% or higher, or a purpose-made resin cleaner.
| Cleaning Method | Best For | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| IPA dunk (manual) | Small batches, occasional prints | Agitate 2-3 minutes |
| Wash station with dunk+spray | Frequent printing | Two-stage: dirty then clean bath |
| Water-washable workflow | Simpler cleanup | Always use supports well |
Important: do not let parts sit in IPA for hours — over-washing can leach into detailed features and soften small geometry. Two to three minutes of gentle agitation is usually enough, followed by a fresh-bath rinse for best results.
Step 3: Drying
Let washed parts dry on a clean towel or a drying rack for 10-15 minutes, or use compressed air to speed it up. Do not skip this step: standing IPA on the surface will interfere with an even post-cure.
Step 4: Post-Curing
Post-curing polymerizes the part fully and brings it to final strength. A dedicated curing station with rotating platform (or a consistent 405nm light source) gives the most uniform result.
- Standard resin — typically 2-4 minutes per side in a curing station
- Rotate the part so every face receives light evenly
- Avoid over-curing — it can make parts brittle and hazy
Step 5: Finishing
Once cured, supports come off cleanly. Light sanding with fine grits removes the last support nubs, and a coat of clear primer or matte varnish protects the surface and evens out sheen.
- Remove supports with flush cutters
- Light-sand with 600-1000 grit
- Rinse dust, dry, then prime if painting
A Resin That Behaves Predictably
The single biggest factor in predictable post-processing is starting with a consistent resin. A reliable general-purpose formula, like the ANTINSKY Standard Lite Resin, gives you stable exposure windows and clean washing behavior, so you are not chasing artifacts caused by material variability.
| Property | Why It Helps Post-Processing |
|---|---|
| Predictable exposure | Fewer partially cured layers to wash |
| Low shrinkage | Less distortion between wash and cure |
| Clean burnout surface | Supports detach with less cleanup |
Master the wash-and-cure rhythm and you unlock the real capability of resin printing: crisp miniatures, precise engineering prototypes and smooth functional parts that hold up in daily use.