Print layer height is the first dial people touch on an LCD resin printer — and also the one most often misunderstood. Lower is not always better. This guide walks through what layer height actually costs, what it buys, and how to choose it for the job.
What Layer Height Controls
In resin printing each layer is cured from below by a masked light source. Layer height (pitch) sets how many slices the model has, which drives three competing things: detail retention, print time, and structural risk from suction.
Layer Height Overlay
| Layer height | Detail / surface | Time per cm³ | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.05 mm (50 µm) | Good, fast | Fast | Functional parts, prototyping |
| 0.03 mm (30 µm) | Excellent, smooth | Moderate | Miniatures, figurines, detail masters |
| 0.025 mm (25 µm) | Finest, edge-sharp | Slow | Jewelry master, micro-texture |
| 0.1 mm (100 µm) | Coarse, blocky | Very fast | Fail-fast tests, support trials |
Why Lower Isn't Always Better
- Time: halving the layer height roughly doubles exposure passes — 30 µm on a large build can add hours.
- Suction forces: more, thinner layers can increase peel force per layer unless lift speeds are tuned.
- Marginal gains: below ~25 µm on a 405 nm consumer printer, the panel's native resolution becomes the limiting factor.
A Simple Decision Method
- Print a calibration test at 30 µm as your default.
- If parts are functional and time matters, jump to 50 µm.
- If you're casting or selling fine masters, drop to 25 µm only on small models.
- Always re-check exposure time when changing layer height — it scales with layer thickness.
Resins That Hold Detail
Sharper layers need a resin that cures crisply without over-bleed. For miniatures, ANTINSKY Standard Lite Resin is a cost-effective, low-odor start. For tougher prototypes that must survive handling, ANTINSKY ABS-Like Resin adds impact resistance, and ANTINSKY Standard Resin is the dependable all-rounder for hobby volume.