Why ASA Deserves More Attention
By Inno Uncle
If you have left a PLA print outside for a week, you already know the story: it warps, fades, and eventually cracks under UV light. ABS handles heat better, but it yellows and can still degrade under constant sun. That is where ASA filament steps in. It prints almost as easily as ABS, yet it resists UV radiation, rain, and temperature swings far better. For functional brackets, garden tools, drone parts, or anything that lives outdoors, ASA is often the most practical choice you are not using.
Key Printing Tips
- Enclosure recommended: ASA still shrinks as it cools. A warm chamber keeps layers bonded and corners flat.
- Bed temperature around 100-110°C: Pair this with a clean PEI or textured build plate for strong first-layer adhesion.
- Print slower for large parts: 40-50 mm/s helps internal stresses relax before the next layer lands.
- Dry your filament: ASA is hygroscopic. Store it in a sealed box with desiccant, or use a drying box before long prints.
ASA vs PETG vs ABS for Outdoor Use
PETG is the easy default, but it softens faster in direct sun and can turn brittle after months of exposure. ABS handles heat but tends to yellow and surface-craze. ASA keeps its color longer, survives UV exposure, and retains mechanical strength in hot car interiors or rooftop mounts. It is not as impact-tough as PETG, so if your part takes impacts, consider a hybrid design: ASA shell with PETG or TPU inserts.
Where to Start
Before buying spools, check that your hotend can reach 240-260°C and that your bed can hold 100°C. If you are already printing ABS successfully, ASA will feel familiar. For outdoor hardware, prototype in the cheaper filament you already own, then print the final version in ASA. Pair it with a quality build plate and keep filament dry in a drying box for the most reliable results.